By: Rafaella Gonzalez
The plane flew low over the city of Lisbon, crystalline waters dotted with sail boats, and its tightly packed hills decorated with colorful buildings. As I looked out the window, my mouth hung open in awe because I had never seen a city that exuded such joy and life at just one glance.
Then it hit me. Those rolling hills I was admiring? Yeah, I would have to climb up and down their winding streets for the next week. However, as soon as my feet hit Lisbon’s polished cobblestones, I knew there was nothing to worry about because here, the name of the game is relaxation. The Portuguese have mastered the art of slowing time and enjoying everything life has to offer. So why worry about the hills when you have all the time in the world to kick up your feet, savor the moment, and get a taste of the plethora of experiences the city has to offer? The Portuguese emphasis on relaxation combined with the easy access from Europe and the US make Lisbon the perfect getaway, especially when you’re traveling while pregnant or with a baby.
We’ve explored both Lisbon and the surrounding coastal areas, so let’s break it all down and discover everything these hills have to offer.
Portuguese embrace all stages of life… even the noisy ones
Flying into Humberto Delgado Airport sets the stage for any new or expecting families when you’re immediately ushered into a short, efficient line for families at immigration. No one blinks if you’re jet lagged and covered in spit up, they lead with empathy and respect, and give you grace (and a smile) while nodding knowingly.
It’s perfectly normal for little ones to run around noisily and to breastfeed in public spaces, so no need to worry about being judged. In fact, sometimes it can feel like the opposite. You’ll see people handing their newborns to complete strangers during lunch because the cultural default is to care for children–even if they aren’t your own. This can be charming but sometimes awkward to navigate. It’s common for people to touch your baby, tickle their toes, or pat their heads…without your consent. If this isn’t something you’re comfortable with, you’ll have to be vocal and upfront about it.
Growing families are a growing priority
Portugal isn’t family-friendly by accident. With one of the lowest birthrates in Europe, the country has made growing families a national priority. By law, priority services in all of Portugal (public and private sectors) extend to pregnant parents and families with children under 2 years old in in-person establishments that offer customer service. This means that you’ll get priority assistance at airports, tourist attractions, supermarkets, large stores, and more. Sometimes all you have to do is ask, and someone will happily help you make your trip smoother and stress-free.
New parents have access to many benefits like a free visit from a nurse a few days after birth and post-natal classes. New mothers are entitled to a 120 day leave with 100% pay or 150 day leave with 80% pay; paternity leave is 28 days. Many of these benefits are only available to residents, which is where the Golden Visa program comes in. It’s an easy pathway to residency that will open the doors to the public health care system and all it offers, an especially great option for remote workers who want to access the perks quickly.
However, it’s important to note that postpartum culture is largely centered around the baby and can sometimes leave new parents overlooked. Resources like lactation consultants are available, but you have to actively seek them out and advocate for yourself.
To tram or not to tram? The secret to getting around
Lisbon’s bumpy and narrow sidewalks can make for tricky terrain, so when you’re pregnant or traveling with your tiny tot, public transportation is your best bet.
All public transportation systems run under Carris and are easy to navigate with their widespread signaling in English. Depending on your destination, you can choose between them, but one thing is for sure: the tram is iconic. You’ll see the dandelion-colored trams everywhere as they chug along and everyone stops to watch. Being on one as it glides along the streets feels like taking a step back in time, which sadly means everyone wants a seat. Route 28 can get especially crowded because it doubles as a tourist attraction, so it’s not the most pragmatic mode of transportation. Opt for the bus if you want some more space and the metro if you don’t mind some stairs.Taxis, Ubers, and Bolts are cheap and easy to find so there’s no need to rent a car unless you’re planning on taking some coastal drives beyond the city. Save yourself the struggle of parking until it’s time to explore the likes of Ericeira and Sintra. Trust us: lugging a stroller uphill while dodging Vespas is not the vibe.
Rest easy, you’re in safe hands
Lisbon is one of the safest cities in Europe, day or night. Just keep an eye out for pickpockets on crowded trams and tourist squares. Your diaper bag is prime real estate.
When it comes to weather, Lisbon has it pretty great. The climate is typically mild and pleasant, with the exceptions of rain during the winter and some high heat in the summer. Get ready for sunny days and blue skies!
The city is as varied as the colors on its buildings
Traveling as a family or with growing bellies definitely isn’t one size fits all. Luckily, Lisbon has something for everyone. Each neighborhood has its own personality, so you’re sure to find somewhere that fits your vibe, your pace, and your idea of travel.
- Chiado: Is your goal to immerse yourself in the history of Lisbon? Chiado is the place to go with its perfect balance of architectural charm, plenty of places to try great food, and fun specialty shops, all in a central location. Think cobblestones, cafés, and culture without the stroller-hostile hills.
- Príncipe Real: If an upscale area is more your speed, Príncipe Real is the shopping destination from unique concept stores to antique shops sprinkled with bougie restaurants in between. Walking distance from main attractions, you can also see the city from above with the incredible view at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara.
- Baixa: Sometimes you just want to be bang in the middle of the action and Lisbon’s vibrant atmosphere. Baixa is the place to be. You’ll be surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and shops of all kinds, all of which are joined by wide, flat streets. Many of them are pedestrianized making for a tourist-friendly area right at the center of town where flat streets are your best friend and car-free zones make chasing a toddler easier.
From the middle ages to the beach
Lisbon’s appeal lies in its variety of activities as well. The city and its surrounding areas take you through the country’s rich history in the form of castles like Sintra’s Palácio Nacional da Pena and Castelo de São Jorge. Their incredible architecture is sure to take you back in time as you wander through ruins and richly colored state rooms. As to your little one, sand castles are never out of reach. When they’re ready to get some wiggles out in the present and you’re ready to relax, sandy, secluded beaches are abundant and optimal for splashing, relaxing, and budding architects. Or maybe experiencing the ocean without getting into it is more your speed. In that case, Lisbon houses one of the largest aquariums in Europe.
Final thoughts
Whatever the nature of your travels, Lisbon is waiting for you with open arms when you have a growing bump or tiny humans in tow. The city showcases its unparalleled natural beauty and stands proudly amongst the hills while thoughtfully making it easy for you to navigate towards whatever interests you.
Lisbon is full of vibrant people, ocean views, and history, all served with a side of pasteis de nata. Your step count will skyrocket, but your stress is guaranteed to melt away.
Lisbon might just be the rare city where a bump, a baby, and a stroller all feel welcome. For detailed how-tos and recommendations,
Check out:
Trimester Abroad in Lisbon: An Expecting Parent’s Guide
Trimester Abroad in Lisbon: A New Parent’s Guide
Trimester Abroad in Lisbon Bundle
