Let’s be real: flying long-haul with a baby is inevitably a logistical nightmare. Add in multiple legs, international layovers, and unpredictable sleep schedules, and suddenly the idea of a layover becomes a strategic decision, not just a normal part of flight routing.
When my family traveled from Sydney to Oslo, we had a few layover options: Hong Kong, Singapore, or Dubai. Tempted by the flashy marketing of Emirates and their famed A380 experience, I opted for a 5-day stopover in Dubai with my husband and infant. What followed was equal parts glamor, grit, and logistical gymnastics. So, is Dubai worth the stop with a baby in tow? Here’s our take:
1. Emirates: Excellent, But Inconsistent
Emirates markets itself as the gold standard of air travel. And in many ways, they deliver, especially in Economy Plus on the A380. You’ll likely get the bulkhead row if you’re traveling with an infant, along with baby amenities like a toy/blanket set, baby toiletries, fruit or vegetable purees (no sugar added), and “baby milk”.
Pros:
- Bulkhead seats with room to spread out
- Clean, spacious changing tables
- Fruits and nuts available mid-flight
- Thoughtful service (most of the time)
Cons:
- Inconsistent service: one flight crew was incredible (respected our boundaries, attentive to baby), another less so (ignored us and grabbed our daughter’s belly uninvited)
- Limited value unless you’re paying $80K or an elite points magician for first class on the A380. Boeing 777 felt like any other airline.
- Food provided for infants left much to be desired. “Baby milk” was infant formula with vegetable oil as the main preservative. Purees were sugar free but inedible, especially for infants already eating solids.
Verdict: Emirates is generally a solid experience for baby travel, but don’t expect magic or consistency on every flight.
2. Not All 5-Star Hotels Are Created Equal
Dubai has no shortage of luxury hotels. We tried three: Hilton Palm Jumeirah, Mandarin Oriental Jumeira Beach, and Atlantis The Royal. All five-star. All very different experiences.
Hilton Palm Jumeirah (Most Affordable):
- Pre-arrival form for baby gear (teepee, tub, bath kit)
- Family-friendly restaurant options
- Small shaded play area + kids pool
- Kids club access only for ages 4+, but parents allowed in with younger kids
- Many baby-friendly activities offered on site and sent pre-arrival
- Limited healthy dining options
Mandarin Oriental (Luxury Boutique):
- Baby amenities offered proactively (robes, slippers, bath products)
- Personalized service at check-in
- Kids club drop-off only for ages 3+ (parents/nannies usually not allowed)
- Room for improvement in speed of service (wipes took multiple calls)
- Nanny service available, concierge offered local age-appropriate baby play options
- Healthy, organic breakfast options for the whole family
Atlantis The Royal (Ultra-Luxury):
- Best branding, weakest execution
- Missed all baby-related and dietary preferences from pre-arrival notes
- Repeatedly brought alcoholic welcome drinks despite requests
- Kids club only accessible to under-3s during nap hours, otherwise drop-off only
- One baby-friendly pool (others restricted)
- Limited healthy food options
- All-inclusive vibe despite luxury marketing
Verdict: Mandarin Oriental struck the best balance for families with infants. Atlantis had the flash, but less thoughtfulness. We also spent time at Atlantis The Palm, which has a renovated kids club that those staying at The Royal can also use. To us, it seemed more “kid-friendly” rather than “baby-friendly”.
3. Dubai Is Safe, But Also Surface-Level
Dubai is often described as “Vegas without the crime.” That’s mostly accurate. Safety is unparallelled, largely due to strict laws and a workforce reliant on employer-sponsored visas. Everyone has a lot to lose, so the rules are respected.
What does that mean for families?
- Women can walk alone safely at night
- No visible violent crime
- Well-maintained public areas
- Plenty of staff/security on hand at all times
But the polished surface comes with caveats:
- Locals are rarely visible in public-facing hospitality roles
- Much of the city’s charm is manufactured and mall-based
- Cultural immersion is limited, and brunch culture reigns supreme
4. Summer is a Non-Starter
If you’re pregnant or traveling with a baby, avoid Dubai from May to September. Temperatures often top 45°C (113°F). Pools become saunas, shaded spots offer little relief, and outdoor excursions are off-limits. Even baby-designated areas at hotels are often unusable during the day.
That leaves:
- Malls (which are impressive, to be fair)
- Indoor playgrounds like OliOli
- Aquarium visits, cafes, or indoor hotel spaces
Verdict: Plan your Dubai stopover in the cooler months, or stick to indoor-only activities if visiting in summer.
5. Baby Transportation is Surprisingly Excellent
Here’s where Dubai really shines: baby-friendly taxis.
The ride-hailing app Careem offers cars equipped with convertible car seats. This is virtually unheard of in other cities and makes getting around with a baby effortless and safe. No extra costs, no awkward installs, no waiting forever. Total game-changer.
6. Cultural Sensitivities (and Surprises)
Dubai’s workforce is international. That’s both a blessing and a challenge. Many hotel staff are from countries where community child-rearing is the norm, so don’t be surprised if they show affection toward your baby. It’s well-intentioned, but can feel intrusive if you’re used to stricter personal boundaries.
- Expect strangers to interact with your child
- Consent culture is less prevalent, though improving
- Most interactions are warm, not threatening
So, Is It Worth It?
Yes, if you:
- Want a break in your flight with upscale hotel comfort
- Need a safe, clean, and efficient place to rest with a baby
- Enjoy dining, shopping, or spa time indoors
- Travel during cooler months
Maybe not, if you:
- Want culture over convenience
- Hope to spend time outside with your little one
- Prefer flexibility and personalized experiences
- Travel during peak summer heat
TL;DR
Dubai is a stopover destination that’s polished, baby-safe, and highly service-oriented, but it’s not exactly warm and fuzzy. Don’t expect deep cultural immersion or perfect execution at every hotel. But if you’re looking for comfort, convenience, and a touch of sparkle on your way elsewhere, it’s a solid (if pricey) bet.
